Join us as we take a trip to one of the emerging makutano towns of western Kenya: Khumusalaba.
Khumusalaba, not to be confused with the Luhya gospel hit Khu Musalaba by Florence Andeyi, is a rapidly growing market at the crucifix where Vihiga, Kakamega and Siaya counties meet. As suggested by the title of the gospel song, khumusalaba means ‘on the cross’. However, for this emerging western Kenya market-town, the inspiration for its naming probably comes not from religiosity, but from the confluence of tribes and major trading roads in a somewhat crucifix fashion. As seen in the image below, the intersection is not ‘perfect’ but skewed.

Transport: Major roads that confluence at Khumusalaba
The easiest way to get to Khumusalaba is by self drive as public transport is erratic and unreliable. Unless of course you find probox matatus, apt transportation. In the event you do, well, these deathtraps will serve you well if you are heading to this market-town on the Mumias-Luanda road. Otherwise, its a long road on a boda boda to get here.
The transport situation is so because Khumusalaba is more of a point where roads leading to other destinations meet rather than a destination. However as the market-town continues to steadily grow, the public transport situation is likely to change. The following roads meet at Khumusalaba.
Emusutswi-Khumusalaba road
Emusutswi is a sleepy T-junction a few kilometers from Kilingili market-town on the Stendi Kisa-Kima road in Bunyore, Vihiga county. As you approach Khumusalaba on this road, boda boda traffic thickens as villagers move to and from the market-town on their everyday errands. Early morning traffic consists mostly of farmers moving produce, often green bananas, for collection by middlemen at Khumusalaba.
Early evenings traffic is thicker occasioned by school children heading back home from school. Late evenings traffic is more sparse and populated by staggering drunks heading back home to their families.
Khumusalaba-Sabatia road
Heading eastwards from the intersection leads one into Kakamega county to Mumias. One moves across the mighty River Yala, through Mulwanda market, Sabatia market and the finally the infamous watering holes and nyama choma joints of Ekero.
Khumusalaba-Luanda road
Heading westwards from the intersection lands one on the Kisumu-Busia road. This road terminates a few kilometers north of the vibrant Luanda town of Vihiga county.
Khumusalaba-Yala road
Taking the road that heads northwards will get you to Yala town. Yala is an emerging academic town in Siaya county. It sits just off the Kisumu-Busia road; a few kilometers from the point where the Khumusalaba-Luanda roads pours onto this major trade route.
Economic activities at Khumusalaba
Trading
As we mentioned above, Khumusalaba serves farmers from around the area as a point of earning from their toil. Other than the usual suspects – mobile money shops, salons and the like – one is likely to come across roadside traders. However, this later group of traders is quite sparse. Especially considering the strategic qualities of this market town for this kind of trade.
Agroforestry
This is mentioned here solely as our little way of supporting entrepreneurship. Because a couple of mulembe entrepreneurs along the Khumusalaba-Sabatia road have stuck their necks out to tend to tree nurseries. We wish them luck.
Entertainment
We are not saying that this town offers a serving unique to what you will find in many rural urban centers. However, we are saying that there is enough booze and stuff that goes with booze for a market-town this size.
Building and construction
Now, we wouldn’t have labelled this market-town ’emerging’ or ‘growing’ if there wasn’t a fair bit of new buildings coming up; or would we? The architecture on display is what one finds across western Kenya. This is to say that even among the upcoming buildings, there are modern interpretations of the beloved ‘Indian shop’.